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Poirette overwire bra / Nylon lace, stretch satin, 1949, USA | Christian Dior petticoat / Nylon net, horsehair net, silk taffeta, 1951, France | Photo: Eileen Costa © MFIT

Christian Dior’s 1947 “New Look” collection heralded a return to a hyper-feminine, hourglass silhouette. The bust became a focal point, and its shape was defined by a variety of highly structured bras and corselets. The cups of this 1949 Poirette bra are formed by heavy wires that arch over the tops of the breasts, rather than below them, both to emphasize and to control the bust. This bra and other, similar designs were well suited to the plunging necklines of fashionable evening dresses.

Petticoats made from tulle, net, and lightweight horsehair were often worn to maintain skirt fullness. This example by Dior was made especially for one of his elaborate couture gowns. Although the petticoat would have scarcely been visible beneath the gown’s hemline, it is beautifully made.

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