Upper-floor interior of Susanne’s West Broadway store, New York City, 1985. Photograph by Tim Street-Porter, courtesy of Susanne Bartsch.

Interior of West Broadway store, New York City, 1985. Courtesy of Susanne Bartsch.

Installation view

Installation view

Installation view

Susanne and Michael Costiff, West Broadway store opening, 1985. Susanne is wearing a dress by Rachel Auburn.
Photograph by Richie Williamson for Details magazine, June 1985.

West Broadway store exterior, New York City, 1985. Photograph by Tim Street-Porter, courtesy of Susanne Bartsch.

Susanne in her shop on Thompson Street, décor by Michael Costiff, c. 1982. Susanne’s hat by Stephen Jones and dress by David Holah. Courtesy of Susanne Bartsch.

Installation view

Installation view

Installation view

Installation view

Installation view

Installation view

Susanne in front of her Thompson Street store designed by Michael Costiff, September 1981. Photo by Michael Costiff.

Installation view

Installation view

Installation view

Installation view

Susanne Bartsch, “Tits Suit.” Day-drag outside the Soho Shop, 1987.
Photo © Amy Arbus.

Susanne is the Dancing Queen in a design by Zaldy.
Photo by Citizen Chris.

Susanne at the opening night of her Kunst parties, Verboten Club, Brooklyn, March 2013.
Photo by Oliver Correa.

Installation view

Installation view

Installation view

Installation view

Installation view

Installation view

Susanne at her New Year’s Eve party at the Delano Hotel in Miami Beach, Florida, 2000.
Photo © Tina Paul, 2000. All Rights reserved.

Photo by Mark Williams.

Susanne in a Zaldy outfit with Brandon Olson, 2013.
Photo by Mark Williams.

Susanne Bartsch with Gage of the Boone, 2013.
Photo © Wilsonmodels

Susanne in Rio Carnival costume, Copacabana, 1991.
© Wouter Deruytter.

Invitation for On Top, at the Standard Hotel, 2014.
Photo by Robin Souma.

Voguing legend Willi Ninja striking a pose on stage at the Love Ball, Roseland Ballroom, 1989. Photo © Tina Paul, 1989. All Rights Reserved.

Simon Doonan and Lypsinka at Love Ball 2, 1991.
Photo courtesy of Simon Doonan.

House of Armani on stage at Love Ball 2 with glamorous onlookers, Roseland Ballroom, 1991. Photo © Tina Paul, 1991. All Rights Reserved.

Lady Miss Bunny at Love Ball 2, 1991.
Photo courtesy of Simon Doonan

Lady Kier from Deee-Lite during Balade de l’Amour, 1992.
Photography by Tim Palen.

Boy George at Balade de l’Amour, Paris, 1992.
Photography by Tim Palen.

Susanne at Balade de l’Amour, October 1992.
Photography by Tim Palen.

Zaldy Goco, Mathu Andersen, and Susanne, at Balade de l’Amour, October 1992.
Photography by Tim Palen.

Susanne and François Sagat in Switzerland hosting an AIDS benefit. Dress by Mathu and Zaldy, 2011. © Patrick Mettraux and Lukas Beyeler.

Susanne with One Half Nelson and Erickatoure Aviance, Life Ball Red Carpet, Vienna, 2014. Susanne’s corset by The Blonds. Headpiece by Garo Sparo.
Photo by Rebecca Smeyne.

Gareth Pugh

Gareth Pugh ensemble, Spring 2015, England, Lent by Gareth Pugh.
Gareth Pugh (born 1981) is a graduate of Central Saint Martins whose fantastical styles have been acclaimed by the fashion press. Style.com described Pugh as the “latest addition to a long tradition of fashion-as-performance-art that stretches back through Alexander McQueen, John Galliano, and Vivienne Westwood to the eighties club culture of Leigh Bowery.” Susanne Bartsch invited him to lend a look that he could see her wearing.

Installation view

Left: Mr. Pearl dress, Early 1980s, England | Stephen Jones Myra hat, Fall 2003, England Lent by Stephen Jones Millinery
“At first I was a little intimidated to go to Susanne’s parties,” recalls the makeup artist Kabuki. “They were like a Fellini movie.” But he quickly came to appreciate that “she chose people with a genuine artistic gift.”

Middle: Vivienne Westwood ensemble, Mini-Crini collection, Spring 1985, England
Vivienne Westwood transformed the Victorian cage crinoline into her famous mini-crini, here resembling a playfully risqué maid’s uniform.

Right: John Galliano corset dress and gloves, 1997, England.
Bartsch knew John Galliano since his days as a student at Central Saint Martins. In 1997, the year this dress was made, he was appointed at the renowned couture house of Christian Dior.

Thierry Mugler

Thierry Mugler’s work has always been characterized by a mixture of fashion, fetish, and fantasy. A black velvet jacket, for example, emphasizes the body’s curves—and the contrast between flesh and fabric—but it is also very strict. His femme fatale designs were perfect for Susanne Bartsch, who shares Mugler’s theatrical sensibility. She introduced him to Mr. Pearl and Abel Villareal whose expertise in corsetry and leather proved valuable.

Dress by Zaldy, 1990s, USA

Susanne Bartsch refers to the style of this Zaldy dress as “Victorian punk.” Zaldy is one of her favorite designers, and she continues to wear clothes that he designed decades ago, only styling them differently.

Susanne in an ensemble by Mathu and Zaldy.
Photograph by MichelvHaddi @Michel Haddi Studio.

Susanne swings. Outfit by Mathu and Zaldy.
Photograph by Michel Haddi @Michel Haddi Studio.

Susanne going to Mars with François Nars in this fabulous look by Mathu and Zaldy.
Photo by François Nars.

Susanne in a Zaldy outfit, with Riccardo Tisci at Vandam Sunday party, 2012.
Photo by Marco Ovando.

Susanne in a corset by The Blonds, circa 2013.
Photo by Marco Ovando.

Susanne in Abel Villarreal’s leather horse look, April 1992.
Photo by Albert Sanchez.

Susanne Bartsch’s animal rings at the Gilded Lily, New York, 2014.
Photo by Olivier Zahm.

Susanne wearing a Rachel Auburn jacket, with Keith Haring in New York City, 1989.
Photo © Tina Paul, 1989. All Rights Reserved.

Nicola Formichetti Coatdress, headpiece
& Maison Martin Margiela for H&M Guitar case   (Left)

Nicola Formichetti is a fashion designer and editor, best known for his work with the Italian label Diesel, and has collaborated with Lady Gaga. A good friend of Susanne Bartsch, Formichetti was artistic director of Mugler from 2010 to 2013.

Coatdress, headpiece: foiled leather, 2015, USA, lent by Nicola Formichetti / Guitar case: leather, 2012, Sweden / Accessories by Butler and Wilson (1980s), Sara Gruenwald (2013), and Lanvin (2011)

Pam Hogg Ensemble   (Right)

Pam Hogg launched her first fashion collection in 1981 and has continued to design for performers ranging from Siouxsie Sioux to Kylie Minogue. She has also performed in many bands, including Hoggdoll.

Metallic leather, patent leather, metal, fall 2015, USA / Wig styled by Charley Brown

Installation view

Mr. Pearl Corset and skirt

In 1989, Susanne Bartsch organized the Love Ball, a pioneering AIDS benefit held at Roseland. Combining the energy of her Copa nights and the inspiration of Harlem house balls, Bartsch organized costume competitions with celebrity judges to raise money for DIFFA (Design Industry Foundation Fighting AIDS). She commissioned her costume from Mr. Pearl, the South African-born corsetier, who would later work for many of the top fashion designers in Paris.

Silk satin, tulle, sequins, glass rhinestones, 1989, England

Susanne with Zaldy, headpiece from Thailand, customized by Mr. Pearl, corset by Mr. Pearl. June 1991. Photo by Josef Astor.

Mr. Pearl ensemble

Susanne Bartsch bought a Thai dance crown while visiting Southeast Asia, and asked Mr. Pearl to make an ensemble to wear with it. Headdresses have often played an important part in her various looks.

Lamé, glass rhinestones and beads, pailettes, late 1980s, England

Headpiece (customized by Mr. Pearl), plastic, metal, rhinestones, velvet, 1980s, Thailand

Mr. Pearl corset ensemble

Susanne Bartsch wore this look at the Ballade d’Amour, an AIDS benefit held at the Folies Bergère in Paris. Designers such as Thierry Mugler, Jean Paul Gaultier, and Azzedine Alaïa participated. Boy George sang, RuPaul was Master of Ceremonies, and Jonathan Newhouse published a catalogue commemorating the event. Combining all her benefits, Bartsch helped raise $2.5 million to fight AIDS.

Silk satin, synthetic tulle, leather, rhinestones, sequins, feathers, net, early 1990s, England

Susanne at her home in the Chelsea Hotel, wearing a corset by Mr. Pearl, Early 1990s.
© Michael James O’Brien.

Annabelle magazine, photoshoot, Zurich, 2013.
Portrait by Rico & Michael.

Susanne with her Adel Rootstein mannequin on the tube in London. Outfits by Mathu and Zaldy. Originally appeared in The Face, December 1991.
Photograph by Norbert Schoerner.

Susanne hosting Valentine’s party at Capitale with Patricia Field, 2011. Susanne’s look by Chris March.
Photo by Robin Souma.

Susanne at a Swiss dance event at the Tribeca Grand Hotel, January 2015.
Photo by Robin Souma.

Susanne at On Top at the Standard Hotel.
Photo by Robin Souma.

Susanne Bartsch, 1999.
Photo by Rob Moritz.

Susanne at her Kunst opening party wearing Zaldy, Brooklyn, March 2013.
Photo by Rebecca Smeyne.

Susanne, veiled.
Photo by Mao Padilha

“Feathers are us.” Look by Mathu and Zaldy, 1990s.
Photo by Mathu Andersen.

Susanne at Catwalk, held weekly on Thursdays at Marquee, 2013.
Photo by Mark Williams.

Susanne at Catwalk, 2013. Dress by Zaldy.
Photo by Mark Williams.

Susanne at Catwalk at Marquee, 2013.
Photo by Marco Ovando.

“Makeup has become an essential if not major part of my looks.”
Photo by Santiago Felipe.

Susanne Bartsch on set with Mathu Andersen, New York City, German Vogue, 1992.
Photo by Arthur Elgort.

Installation view

The Blonds Golden Asp catsuit

Stretch tulle lamé, metal, crystal, fiber glass, metallic resin, beads, paillettes,
2015, USA, lent by THE BLONDSPiers Atkinson

Headband: Plastic, gold leaf, 2009, England | Wig styled by Charley Brown
Joji Kojima ring: Metal, feather, 2012, USA

Alexander McQueen dress
Stephen Jones Love Ball hat     (Left)

Stephen Jones says that he designed the Love Ball hat in honor of Susanne Bartsch.
Leather, metal, silk chiffon, Spring 2011, England | Hat: Goose feathers, nylon net, rayon, satin, elastic cord 2015, England | Wig styled by Charley Brown

Asher Levine dress, Rod Keenan hat     (Center)

Asher Levine has created art installations for Susanne Bartsch’s Art-a-Porter project, as well as garments such as this dress. Rod Keenan is one of New York’s best-known independent hat designers.
Leather,chiffon, 2013, USA | Hat: felt, circa 2005, USA

Renato Dicent Bodysuit
Chromat Hood cage, “Android arms” sleeves     (Right)

Chromat is known for “structured experiments for the human being.” Renato Dicent creates corsets and bodysuits, as well as art installations for events such as Susanne Bartsch’s Catwalk.
Vinyl, 2014, USA | Hood cage: Corset boning and elastic, Spring 2012, fall 2014, USA, lent by Chromat | Wig styled by Raquel Martuscelli

Zaldy dress     (Left)

Susanne Bartsch refers to the style of this Zaldy dress as “Victorian punk.” Zaldy is one of her favorite designers, and she continues to wear clothes that he designed decades ago, only styling them differently.

Dress: Nylon, glass beads 1990s, USA | Wig styled by Raquel Martuscelli

Reem Alasadi Jacket, Jean Paul Gaultier Capelet, top (as dress)     (Center)

Jacket: Fur, silk, 2011 | Capelet and top: Nylon mesh, sequins 2000s, France | Footless socks by Zaldy (1990s) | Hat: 1930s-1940s, Switzerland | Wig styled by Raquel Martuscelli

The Blonds Corset and Joji Kojima Mask     (Right)

Joji Kojima is a young Japanese artist known for his jewelry and fashion accessories, especially masks and rings. Lady Gaga wore his chain-mail mask on the cover of her “Fame Monster” album.

Corset: Plastic pailettes, wood, glass beads, nylon net, canvas, synthetic satin, buckram, 2011, USA | Mask: Metal, 2010, USA, lent by Joji Kojima | Wig styled by Charley Brown

Jean Paul Gaultier Ensemble & Hat     (Left)

One of the first openly gay fashion designers, Jean Paul Gaultier has always been attracted to subcultural styles (such as Punk and New Romantics). He has also been an advocate of alternative beauty, using models of all ages and sizes.

Polyamide, cotton, late 1990s, France | Hat: straw, 1940s, USA

Abel Villarreal Coat and Saga NYC Bodysuit     (Right)

Abel Villareal helped Bartsch source her wigs in Los Angeles, and then made this coat from synthetic hair.

Coat: Synthetic hair, cotton twill, synthetic satin, 1989, USA | Bodysuit: Synthetic stretch mesh, 2014, USA | Necklaces, bracelets: Glass beads, metal, circa 2008, Kenya | Wig styled by Raquel Martuscelli