As the first decade of the twenty-first century unfolded, the focus turned toward theatre and spectacle, exemplified in designs by Alexander McQueen and Jun Takahashi of Undercover. Their penchants for drama and fantasy indicated a new direction for maximalist fashion. In addition, the economic upswing after the recession of the 1990s precipitated a return of status-driven excess, exemplified by the popularity of expensive “It” bags.
In turn, a new austerity in fashion grew increasingly relevant, both aesthetically and environmentally. By 2009, a “new minimalism” was in full force, defined by the confident, relaxed designs from Celine, the architectural purity of Calvin Klein, and the environmentally conscious clothes of Stella McCartney. Interestingly, designers were also challenging aesthetic boundaries, at times combining minimalism and maximalism in the same garment.