The black leather motorcycle jacket was conceived as a utilitarian garment meant to protect riders from wind, rain, and cold. Yet as a symbol of rebellion and non-conformity, it quickly developed its own mystique—and that, along with the jacket’s sleek, sturdy design, excited the imaginations of high-fashion designers. They began to feature biker jackets in their collections, and the appeal of the jacket continued to grow.
The Perfecto is widely regarded as the original black leather biker jacket. It was created in 1928 by the Schott Brothers of New York City, at the request of a Harley-Davidson motorcycle distributor. The Perfecto’s design derives from the black leather jackets of German World War I aviators, but each design element was customized for motorcycle riders: the button fasteners of early military jackets were replaced with more secure, yet accessible, chrome snaps and zippers; the waist was cropped to facilitate freedom of movement while riding; and a buckled belt and asymmetrical, zipper front were added to protect the wearer from the wind. The well-engineered construction of the Perfecto established it as the archetypal biker jacket, destined to become an inspiration to motorcyclists and fashion designers alike.
This Perfecto jacket has the same construction as the original 1928 horsehide design, first created by the Schott Brothers for manufacture by Harley-Davidson. Its black leather, chrome hardware, asymmetrically zipped front, and belted waist have been so successful that Schott still produces the Perfecto design today.
Black leather and metal, circa 1980, USA, P89.29.1, museum purchase
During the 1970s and 1980s, as some fashion designers grew increasingly attracted to black leather for its associations with fetishism and sexuality, they began to take cues from leather subcultures. Punks of the 1970s often added spikes, metal studs, pins, and fetish imagery to their biker jackets, while musicians in punk bands, such as the Sex Pistols, frequently wore similar jackets. Jean Paul Gaultier brought punk style to high fashion: a dynamic version of the jacket from his 1987 collection combines spikes with fringe, leather trapunto stitching, and faux fur.
Jean Paul Gaultier’s jacket combines a type of wool pinstripe material worn by businessmen with metal spikes that are reminiscent of punk style. Gaultier was a master of mixing fabrics; his influences likewise drew on a variety of sources.
Shearling, leather, suede, and wool, 1987, France, 2000.23.10, gift of Anne M. Zartarian
Designers continue to draw on the biker jacket as a source of inspiration. Some of them have pushed the boundaries of its construction and symbolism, going far beyond the classic Perfecto silhouette. A 2005 ensemble from the Biker + Ballerina collection by Rei Kawakubo for Comme des Garçons, mixes a pink gingham and tulle skirt with a saddle-stitched, black leather biker jacket, juxtaposing the jacket’s tough and aggressive associations with the skirt’s softness and femininity.
Rei Kawakubo conveys the commanding force of the biker jacket without imitating its familiar features. This saddle-stitched, sculptural jacket is paired with a pink gingham skirt, a disparate combination that calls forth both the power of motorcycles and the strength of ballerinas.
Black leather, pink and white cotton gingham, pink nylon tulle, and polyester chiffon, Spring 2005, Biker + Ballerina collection, Japan, 2005.49.1, Museum purchase
Distressed black leather and asymmetrical zippers link this ensemble to the archetypal biker jacket. By pushing the boundaries of the original biker jacket design, Owens skillfully integrated sculptural details that are typical of his rebellious and refined style.
Off-black denim, wool felt, leather, grey ribbed knit, Fall 2008, France, 2010.94.1, gift of Rick Owens
Ever since the 1928 Perfecto, the biker jacket has adapted to a variety of trends, while its elements have been incorporated into numerous clothing styles. Today, it is once again at the forefront of fashion. Its thoughtfully engineered design continues to encourage reinterpretation and reconfiguration by fashion designers. The biker jacket’s resilient features and tenacious symbolism have established it as a fashion classic, making it a dynamic presence on the runway as well as the street.
Yves Saint Laurent (Stefano Pilati) Jumpsuit ensemble
Yves Saint Laurent continued to draw inspiration from the biker jacket after opening his own couture house in 1962. Decades later, Stefano Pilati also referenced the biker jacket in this sleek jumpsuit he designed for Saint Laurent, incorporating exposed zippers and an asymmetrical front.
Black leather, Fall 2009, France, 2010.90.1, gift of Yves Saint Laurent
This evening dress bears little resemblance to the Perfecto, but it was inspired by The Terminator, a science fiction movie featuring a cyborg wearing a biker jacket. Designer Nicolas Ghesquière combined references to 1950s couture with the imagery of cars and cyberculture, creating a futuristic twist on an elegant staple.
Black patent leather and silk enamel, Spring 2007, France, 2007.44.1, gift of Balenciaga
