Related Links

Emma McClendon, assistant curator, and Nicole Bloomfield, conservation technologist, both at The Museum at FIT, explain the significance of a pair of 19th-century men’s work pants

Public lecture on Denim: Fashion’s Frontier, by Emma McClendon. Hosted by the Society of Antiquaries of London.

Selected Bibliography

Primary Sources

Costume Collection of The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology

The holdings of The Fashion Institute of Technology Special Collections Library – including The Denim Council Papers

The holdings of The Levis Strauss & Co. Archives

Selected Printed Works

Alfrey, Pennie, Val Beattie, Phil Cosker and Paul Atkinson, Denim: The Fabric of Our Lives, Sleaford, United Kingdom: the Hub, National Centre for Craft and Design, 2008.

Arnold, Rebecca, Fashion, Desire and Anxiety: Image and Morality in the 20th Century, London: I.B. Tauris & Co, Ltd, 2001.

Beagle, Peter S. American Denim: A New Folk Art. New York: Harry N. Abrams, Inc., 1975.

Burt, Struthers, “Boccaccio In Chaps,” Vogue, May 15, 1935, p.72-73, and 122.

Crenshaw, Mary Ann “Levi Strauss with a French accent is Yves Saint Laurent,” Rags, November, 1970, p.18-19

Downey, Lynn, This Is a Pair of Levi’s Jeans: Official History of The Levi’s Brand.  San Francisco: Levi Strauss & Co., 1996.

Downey, Lynn. Levi Strauss & Co. New York: Arcadia Publishing, 2006.

Downey, Lynn. “A Short History of Denim,” San Francisco: Levi Strauss & Co., 2014.

Ettorre, Barbara, “Status Jeans: Lucrative Craze,” New York Times, June 25, 1979, p. D1.

Finlayson, Iain. Denim: An American Legend, New York: Fireside , 1990.

Freedman, Alix M., “Jeans Makers Batter Denims into Tatters, Take a Beating Too,” Wall Street Journal, 29 May, 1987, p. 1.

Gordon, Beverly, “American Denim: Blue Jeans and Their Multiple Layers of Meaning,” The Men’s Fashion Reader, eds. Peter McNeil and Vicki Karaminas, Oxford: Berg, 2009, p. 331-341.

Harris, Alice. The Blue Jean, New York: Powerhouse Books, 2002.

Harris, Michael. Jeans of the Old West. New York: Schiffer Publishing, Inc., 2010.

Helliker, Kevin “Diesel Is the Label of the Moment, but Not Everyone Can Afford It,” The Wall Street Journal, December 9, 1998.

Keet, Philomena, “Making New Vintage Jeans in Japan: Relocating Autheticity,” Textile (Volume 9, Issue 1), Oxford: Berg, 2011, p. 44-61

Marsh, Graham and Paul Trynka, Denim: From Cowboys to Catwalks, London: Aurum Press Limited, 2002

Marx, W. David, Ametora: How Japan Saved American Style, New York: Basic Books, 2015

Miller, Daniel and Sophie Woodward, Global Denim. Oxford and New York: Berg, 2011.

Philipkoski, Kristen, “FBI Tracks the Denim Trail” in Wired magazine, April 6, 1998

Polhemus, Ted, Street Style: From Sidewalk to Catwalk. London: Thames and Hudson, 1994

Prud’Homme, Alex, “Advertising: What’s It All About, Calvin?” Time magazine, (Vol. 138, No. 12), September 23, 1991

Rasche, Adelheid ed., Wardrobes in Wartime 1914-1918, Berlin: Kunstbibliothek, 2014.

Socha, Miles, “Debating Levi’s Big New Look,” Women’s Wear Daily, Aug 19, 1999, p. 6-7.

Sullivan, James, Jeans: A Cultural History of an American Icon. New York: Gotham Books, 2006

Trebay, Guy “No Small Price to Pay for Denim Perfection,” New York Times, April 27, 2004, p. B8.

Yohannan, Kohle and Nancy Nolf, Claire McCardell: Redefining Modernism, New York: Harry N. Abrams, Inc. Publishers, 1998

&“Work Clothes: The More They Become You, The More They Become You,” Rags, November, 1970, p.18-19

Denim: Manufacture, Finishing and Applications, ed. Roshan Paul, Cambridge, United Kingdom: Woodhead Publishing, 2015

Online Resources

Cotton Inc., Lifestyle Monitor

Heddels (formerly RAWR DENIM), blog