Norman Norell
Born Norman David Levinson in Noblesville, Indiana, the designer adopted the more soigné moniker of Norman Norell soon after studying illustration and fashion design in New York during the early 1920s. He moved seamlessly from student to costume designer and by 1924 had begun his career as a fashion designer. At the onset of World…
Norell Signatures
Although Norell was not the first American designer to employ couture techniques, he was the most important creator to codify them at the ready-to-wear level. He was also one of the primary creators to profoundly alter existing perceptions about New York’s Seventh Avenue garment industry, at the time derisively called the “rag trade.” So outstanding…
The Sailor Suit
Norell grew up wearing sailor suits, so is it perhaps not surprising that this look was one of his favorites. He produced countless versions throughout his career. His nautical style dresses ranged from those with gigantic balloon sleeves and skirts crafted out of organza to slim, sleeveless shifts made from linen. No matter the shape,…
Menswear Inspired
Norell’s family owned and operated a successful haberdashery, where he was exposed to menswear fabrics, cuts, and details from an early age. Like a number of leading designers, Norell began in the early 1940s to infuse women’s clothes with the practicality and aesthetics of menswear. Among the best examples of this masculine/feminine fusion are his…
The 1920s
Norell’s favorite period in fashion history was the 1920s, the decade he began his design career. Ever the modernist, Norell readily embraced the emancipated woman who began to shorten her hair and her hemlines while discarding her corsets. He also collected paintings by Fauve artist Kees van Dongen, whose subjects with kohl-rimmed eyes, bobbed hair…
Materials
Norell used only the finest and most luxurious materials. Among them was fur. However, Norell did not craft coats or any other type of garment made entirely of fur. Instead, he chose to trim his day and evening wear with mink, fox, and sable. The judicious use of this expensive and sensuous material elevated the…
Mermaids
Aptly called the “mermaid,” Norell’s shimmering, sequin-covered evening gown is arguably his most recognizable creation. Like many designers, he was influenced by Hollywood costumes, especially those created during the Golden Age. In fact, Norell began his career working for both Brooks Costume Company and Paramount Pictures during the 1920s. It is not surprising that he…