Pierre Cardin opened his own house in 1950, still only in his late twenties. According to a 1965 biography of the designer, Cardin’s early years were successful, but he was known primarily for designing suits. It was not until 1957 that he designed his first full couture collection, with designs for all occasions.

Viewing the couturier’s early designs – in particular his evening dresses – may be startling to anyone familiar with his work from the 1960s. Although fashionable and beautifully made, it is difficult to identify this gown as the work of Cardin. Over the next few years, he would begin to distinguish himself as a designer with a taste for the avant-garde and even the futuristic.