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Posts in the coat category

Jeanne Lanvin

By The Museum at FIT
In Objects
Tagged with 1936 1937 black coat Countess Greffulhe dress installation Jeanne Lanvin
On 21 Dec | '2016

L: Photograph © Zach Hilty/BFA.com
R: Photo by Eileen Costa. © 2016 The Museum at FIT

The Countess Greffulhe clearly appreciated the sophisticated subtlety of Jeanne Lanvin, one of the greatest fashion designers of her era, whose work reached its height in the 1930s. Even in her seventies, the Countess continued to adopt advanced fashions, such as the coat on the right with almost Surrealist effects.

Left: Jeanne Lanvin
Evening gown, summer 1937
Tulle and crepe
GAL1964.20.38AB, gift of the Gramont family to the Palais Galliera

Right: Jeanne Lanvin
Day coat, 1936
Silk satin, wool, metal, fur
GAL1964.20.31, gift of the Gramont family to the Palais Galliera

Proust’s Muse, The Countess Greffulhe runs through January 7, 2016 at The Museum at FIT in NYC.

This exhibition was developed by the Palais Galliera, Fashion Museum of the City of Paris, Paris Musées.

Evening Coat circa 1925

By The Museum at FIT
In Objects
Tagged with 1925 coat Countess Greffulhe gold installation
On 13 Dec | '2016

Photographs © Zach Hilty/BFA.com

This iridescent blue and silver evening coat with Orientalist motifs (rocks, trees, pagodas, figures) demonstrates how the Countess Greffulhe continued to be attracted to the glittering exoticism of the pre-war years.

Evening coat (no label), circa 1925
Gold lamé, embroidery, and sequins
GAL1964.20.24, gift of the Gramont family to the Palais Galliera

Proust’s Muse, The Countess Greffulhe runs through January 7, 2016 at The Museum at FIT in NYC.

This exhibition was developed by the Palais Galliera, Fashion Museum of the City of Paris, Paris Musées.

Vitaldi Babani Evening Coats

By The Museum at FIT
In Objects
Tagged with 1920 coat Countess Greffulhe silk taffeta velvet Vitaldi Babani
On 29 Nov | '2016

Photographs © Zach Hilty/BFA.com

Left: The Countess Greffulhe was a pioneering fundraiser for the arts and a great supporter of Diaghilev’s Ballets Russes. Leon Bakst’s brilliantly colored dance costumes and sets inspired both fashion and interior design. The Countess’s flowing robes and coats by Babani and Fortuny created a similarly exotic effect.

Vitaldi Babani
Coat, circa 1920
Printed and embroidered silk chiffon
GAL1964.20.18, gift of the Gramont family to the Palais Galliera

Right: After her daughter grew up, the Countess Greffulhe stopped wearing pink, which was associated with youth. However, she continued to wear green. The Japonism for which Babani was famous is exemplified by this green velvet evening coat with a kimono-like silhouette.

Vitaldi Babani
Evening coat, circa 1920
Silver lamé, black silk, emerald green velvet, black taffeta
GAL1964.20.16, gift of the Gramont family to the Palais Galliera

Proust’s Muse, The Countess Greffulhe runs through January 7, 2016 at The Museum at FIT in NYC.

This exhibition was developed by the Palais Galliera, Fashion Museum of the City of Paris, Paris Musées.

Vitaldi Babani

By The Museum at FIT
In Objects
Tagged with 1912 caftan coat Fortuny green grey silk taffeta velvet Vitaldi Babani
On 17 Nov | '2016

Far left: Attributed to Babani, this evening coat is strongly influenced by Fortuny. In particular, the floral and vegetal motifs of the fabric recall Fortuny’s love of Renaissance textiles, which were themselves heavily influenced by imported Asian textiles. Made of green velvet, lined in red taffeta, and fastened with a Murano glass button, it is one of many Orientalist garments worn by the Countess Greffulhe during the 1910s and 1920s. Notice again her love of green.

Attributed to Vitaldi Babani
Evening coat, circa 1912
Green silk velvet printed with gold, glass buttons
GAL1964.20.13, gift of the Gramont family to the Palais Galliera

Near Left: In the years prior to World War I, the Countess Greffulhe began to support the Ballets Russes, and her personal style also increasingly gravitated toward Orientalist garments. The house of Vitaldi Babani specialized in the sale of Japanese kimonos and garments by Fortuny and Liberty, before starting to create their own designs, such as this gown in the form of a caftan, which was originally worn, slightly bloused, over a sash.

Vitaldi Babani
Indoor gown, circa 1912
Grey silk taffeta with painted pochoir decoration, silk passementerie, glass buttons, lined in orange silk taffeta
GAL1964.20.12, gift of the Gramont family to the Palais Galliera

Proust’s Muse, The Countess Greffulhe runs through January 7, 2016 at The Museum at FIT in NYC.

This exhibition was developed by the Palais Galliera, Fashion Museum of the City of Paris, Paris Musées.

Maison A. Félix House Coat

By The Museum at FIT
In Objects
Tagged with 1895 A. Félix coat green silk
On 2 Nov | '2016

Robert de Montesquiou appreciated Élisabeth Greffulhe’s taste and often commented on her fashions, such as a garment of “green shot silk, mixed with violet, which gave her the appearance of a Lorelei” (i.e., a siren or mermaid). This green shot silk housecoat is by the couturier, A. Félix.

Proust’s Muse, The Countess Greffulhe runs through January 7, 2016 at The Museum at FIT in NYC.

Maison A. Félix
House coat, circa 1895
Shot silk taffeta, silk braid trimming with metallic thread
GAL1964.20.5, gift of the Gramont family to the Palais Galliera

This exhibition was developed by the Palais Galliera, Fashion Museum of the City of Paris, Paris Musées.