By the 1980s, a new fitness lifestyle had begun to develop around aerobics. The ideal became a hard, muscular body for both men and women, which designers such as Thierry Mugler and Donna Karan emphasized in different ways. At the same time, designers from Japan like Issey Miyake created oversized looks that intentionally obscured the body.
Concerns about obesity have been on the rise since the 1980s, which has likely influenced body ideals, making the extreme opposite appear more desirable. Thus the toned body gave way to a waifish ideal during the 1990s. Teenage model Kate Moss (nicknamed “the waif”) pioneered the look in provocative ads and on runways of major brands.