Adrian believed that proper fit and clean construction were imperative, and used a myriad of complex techniques to construct sculptural, style-setting looks. Fellow costume designer Edith Head once remarked that she “often felt pangs of inadequacy” when she saw Adrian’s “perfectly engineered gowns.”
Adept at both draping and tailoring, Adrian under stood how best to use the inherent qualities of textiles, such as the flow of knit jersey and the strength of woven wool. He built architectural suits by manipulating stripes and checks through mitering, the joining of fabric at different angles in order to create subtle patterns. From a distance, his construction draws focus to the triangular silhouette with wide shoulders and narrow hips. Up close, asymmetrical tabs, buttons, pockets, and panels add interest “above the table” — a movie-making term that refers to the look from the waist up.