Conservation

Glittering Materiality and Conservation

Textile conservators work to preserve objects in museum collections so they can continue to be displayed for the public, often using research and analytical tools to understand and protect the items.

1953-1954 advertisement for Metlon threads — This advertisement from American Fabrics emphasizes the synthetic fiber Metlon’s versatility in conjunction with other fibers and in a variety of applications. These new materials had unprecedented thinness and flexibility, were washable and non-tarnishing, and had no noticeable metal scent, resolving many issues with traditional metal strips incorporated into textiles.

Advertisement for Metlon metallic yarn in *American Fabrics* magazine
Winter 1953-1954
Fashion and Textile Studies Graduate Study Collection

1959 advertisement for Mylar and Lurex featuring colorful threads. — *American Fabrics*, which ran from 1946 to 1986, blurred the lines between a trade publication and an art magazine, featuring colorful illustrations and actual fabric swatches. This spread featured advertisements for Mylar and Lurex, two new synthetic materials that made glitter in fabric more affordable in the mid-twentieth century.

Mylar and Lurex advertisements in *American Fabrics* magazine
Spring 1959
*Fashion and Textile Studies Graduate Study Collection*

Scanning electron microscopy image of thin metal strip around fiber core — Thin metal strips can be used as yarns or wrapped around a fiber core to create glimmering effects. Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) shows these wrapped metal threads close up. While the effect is beautiful, the abrasive metal and its corrosion over time can make metal threads difficult to conserve.

Polarized light microscopy image of polyester fibers — Technological innovation has created a wealth of shiny materials, making glittering fashion more accessible. Coatings like polyurethane or polyvinyl chloride can create almost any color or finish. However, they often crack, harden, and discolor over time, and can even emit gasses such as acetic acid as they degrade.

Synthetic fibers, such as polyester, are ubiquitous in fashion. Using polarized light microscopy (PLM), conservators can identify the smooth, regular strands of a synthetic fiber, and the bright colors reflected from the polarized light. These synthetic fibers are adaptable, but have environmental repercussions, such as releasing microplastics over time.

Fashion is an inherently physical experience. To preserve the delicate objects in museum collections, visitors are asked not to touch them. This virtual “touch case” allows visitors to look at these highly-tactile shimmering fabrics close up…

Condition Reporting

Conservators write condition reports to assess the stability of an object and to serve as a record. The reports document current damage, areas of weakness, and often include suggestions for treatment.

Curators and future conservators reference these reports to understand the object’s history and assess its suitability for display. The FTS students wrote condition reports for a variety of glittering study collection objects for this exhibition!

Explore the condition reports for…

… a Lurex skirt by Bonnie Cashin and Dorothy Liebes, owned by Gypsy Rose Lee

… a sequined Courrèges dress and jacket, c. 1964

… a Christian Dior dress from the 1950s